A Mombasa Month

Yesterday marked the one month anniversary of the day I left the comfiness of home for my Kenyan adventure. Today marks the one month anniversary of my arrival. So I’ve made it through a month here! Therefore, I thought i would take this chance to just think about what’s gone on the past month. So i’ll start off with a bit of a confession – Mombasa is not what I expected.

When I was first told I would be placed in Mombasa, and started mentioning Mombasa to others who knew of the city back in Canada, I got the impression of sleepy, airy, relaxed sea-side town where the ocean is just footsteps away, you don’t need to take out life insurance to cross the street, the air is (somewhat) clean and its peace and quiet is around every corner.

Now those of you who I actually talked to about Mombasa may either be wondering a) how the hell did he get that from what I said? Or b) you mean it isn’t? (probably more A). But I have to say, living and visiting a city are 2 completely different experiences. When I first arrived in Mombasa it was easy to see why people instantly fall in love with the place. We stayed in a gorgeous hotel on the coast of the Indian ocean, and everything seems so scenic. That first night I saw the full moon brilliantly shine over the Indian ocean I can honestly say I was hooked. However, it was a little short lived. The hotels are actually quite a distance from the island (the actual city is an island the hotels are off the island). The island is more of a congested, smelly, loud mess. Having said that though, I’m also settling in pretty well and Mombasa is not that bad – just not what I expected. We have found a nice little place that is on the island but removed from the chaos and smelliness of the city centre and is actually right on the waterfront. Every night I am able to come home and sit out on our porch swing and watch the sunset over the water (I can’t go watch the moon on account of our guard dogs who still don’t recognize me at night and come charging at full speed).

So what have I done in the past month and what have I learned? Well…for one thing, I have shaken more hands in the past month than I have in the past decade. Kenyans love to shake hands…so much so that they will go out of their way to do so, but it’s a nice gesture. I've also learned that there is no improper time to answer a cellphone. I've seen meeting chairs (in mid-sentence) and teachers (while teaching) stop to answer their phone...its a little ridiculous, oh and no one's heard of the vibrate feature..they all just ring. Kenya is also probably also one of the slowest country's I’ve ever been to - nothing moves fast here…except for the matatu’s. My work has been slow to say the least. I miss critical thinking and having my mind challenged and managing multiple tasks. I don’t mean to sound condescending, but I feel as if the pace at work is starting to make me dumber. But I’m learning to adapt – I mean, as long as I’m not wearing my bright red Toronto FC t-shirt, I can pass off as a local anyday. I swear I’m even starting to recognize some of the matatu drivers. Streets are starting to look familiar, I can navigate my way around and I’m starting to speak “a little” crude Swahili (really wanna take some lessons). OH! and the last few times I’ve taken a tuk tuk, they’ve quoted me the local price right away, no bargaining needed! So there is some good news.

Recently I took a field trip out to a district where we were going to do a health education session at a rural school (built by an NGO) which had the most interesting motto:

Struggle for Success.

Struggle for Success? Struggle? I found it very odd that a motto would indicate that you need to struggle in order to succeed. Why not “strive for success” or something? But as I thought about it, in a cynical manner I thought that it maybe that does somewhat describe whats going on in Kenya. Success is a struggle. I know I wrote a little while ago on the level of complacency that exists here, but there are those who have true passion and ambition and want to see change – I’ve met them! I am lucky to count my supervisor at work as one of these people. But it just seems like there are so many things holding them back - corruption, violence, injustice, poverty…the list goes on.

Its funny how much can change in a month. Recently I was talking to my fellow intern Sarah who mentioned that sights that would make us run for disinfectant back in Canada are just brushed aside here. At home the sight of a gecko on the wall inside my house, would probably have me a little concerned. Here, as long as he’s not trying to tell me how much i can save on car insurance its all good. I’m starting to learn to re-adjust my standards. What we would consider chaos in Canada is organized in Kenya. You just have to remember, as I’ve been told so many times “this is Africa”. So, you adapt, its what human beings do. Billions of people have been doing it for billions of years before me - at least that’s what I keep reminding myself otherwise I’m never gonna make it.

So one month down, 7 to go and i look to the next 7 months with optimisim. I am optimistic that my work will become more challenging and maybe even faster paced, I am optimistic that I will meet more Kenyans with true passion and ambition for change, I am optimistic that I will adapt.
Here’s hoping the next 7 months are full of life, laughter and learning.
The journey continues…