Food for Thought

Lately, it seems as if 2 main topics are consuming the daily headlines in Kenya and its hard to ignore them. One of them, no surprise is Obama. With his inaugration last week its safe to say that on January 20th, there was only topic being talked about anywhere and everywhere. It seems as if people here in Kenya have higher hopes that Obama will do more for them than their own government/president – the unfortunate reality is that maybe that’s true. I know, Obama is an American president and his first and foremost responsibility is to Americans. But when you see to what extent the government here has let its people down, it seems worth the risk to have that beacon of hope that maybe January 21st was the dawn of a new era not only for the US, but Kenya as well.

Just how much has the government let its people down? Well, that brings me to the other topic that seems to dominate Kenyan headlines – food. Or I should say, the lack of it. I remember hearing about the global food crisis when I was still in Canada back in June, July. To be honest, its quite hard to relate to this food crisis when you live in a country like Canada and you enjoy relative plenty. Coming to Kenya I have seen, or at least heard about the food shortage loud and clear. Maize (a.k.a. corn) – one of kenya’s staples, or the staple of the Kenyan diet you might say, is worth more than diamonds right now. Maize is ground down into flour and maize flour is something that you will find in almost every Kenyan home. From maize you make ugali, something that I just can’t seem to have an appetite for (despite my love for food). Its basically maize flour that has been cooked into a thick porridge like texture and served. It kinda looks like a mound of mashed potatoes except much harder, thicker and starchy. Make sense? Anyways, Kenyans eat it all the time. Its cheap and its filling. Nutritious? Somewhat, but definitely not on its own, but when money is hard to come by, a full stomach comes first.
Anyways, there was great outrage recently here when the price of maize flour started to increase. There was anger all around and plenty of fingers being pointed. Recent droughts had decreased stocks, the national cereals board (who’s in charge of distribution of maize) was incompetent and numerous allegations of hoarding and corruption. The government did act to start providing subsidized maize flour, but somehow that whole system has been riddled with corruption and cases of missing maize flour. There were also reports that some of the maize flour produced was actually toxic but still made its way onto the market. So whats the average Kenyan family to do? Just today there was a special in the newspaper about the food crisis and numerous stories of children going hungry, parents unable to provide for their children, and families having to sell the meager assets to buy food.

Times like this I am very grateful for the fact that I don’t have to worry about where my next meal is coming from or fear going hungry. I think what makes me really upset about the whole thing is that while this is happening, government MP’s continue to lead cushy lives in chauffeured limousines and recently voted down the idea that they should pay tax for their monthly salary which is more than some Kenyans may see in their lifetime.

But what good is it to just be angry. It seemed that the common theme in the articles was that “this is Kenya”. Maybe it is, but that just seems hopeless, and if I have learned one thing over and over, its that when you lose hope, you lose all. So like I said earlier, maybe in this case its worth the risk to put your faith in a mortal being, the son of Kenya, who is thousands of km. away that somehow his influence will reach across the world to Nairobi and get this government off its chair into action. Its worth it, to hope.

The Greatest Compliment

With the start of the new year, I would be lying if I said that home didn’t seem a little closer. While that does excite me, it is also sad to think that my journey is soon coming to an end and it makes me somewhat anxious about the kind of emotional roller-coaster I will endure in early march when I finally do make the trek home. When I returned to Mombasa after the holiday, I actually felt a sense of relief. My holiday was fantastic and the chance to see good friends and spectacular sights in Tanzania is something I wouldn’t have traded for the world. But right from when I arrived at the airport to be greeted at the gate with a smile and a warm pat on the back by our taxi guy Frank (who we have gotten to know fairly well in the past 4-5 months) I couldn’t help but feel a sense of familiarity and comfort. I know I haven’t given Mombasa exactly sparkling reviews, but I surprised myself this past weekend, when we welcomed some new expats into the Mombasa scene and I began speaking fondly about the quirks of this scorched earth city. On Sunday as we sat in the shade on a patio of one of Mombasa’s busier streets eating soft gelato with a cool summer breeze I couldn’t help but smirk at the thought of being in the frozen tundra that is probably Toronto right now and in that moment it was true that there was nowhere else I’d rather be.

Probably one of the greatest surprises was when I returned to work after the holiday season. As I went around greeting everyone and wishing them all happy new year, I felt a sense of belonging and I started to think about the things I would miss when I leave; the abundance of fresh juice, the smell of grilled meat, the Indian ocean. As I sat and talked with my co-workers about their holidays and what they did, I let it slip that in fact my time was coming to an end in just 7 short weeks. The sadness on their faces was something I’ll never forget and it warmed my heart to no end. I was so humbled by the comments of ‘we want you to stay’ or ‘I’m going to ask the director to extend your contract’ (even though he already did and I turned it down). But perhaps one comment I will never forget from a co-worker was just a side remark that ‘this guy, we’ll miss’.

Its always nice to be appreciated for your work and to know that in fact you have contributed something to a larger cause and in the end, maybe even made things better. Its hard for me to comment on the scale of contribution I’ve made, at times I felt like I’m doing nothing at all, while at other times I felt the opposite, I guess that’s for others to decide, not me. But to have people to say that they want you to stay, that they enjoy your company as colleagues and as friends, and to just appreciate who you are, through your good moments and your bad, for better or for worse, that really is the greatest compliment.

Zanzibar: Ringing in the New Year in the Land of the Setting Sun

If the island of Japan is referred to as the land of the rising sun then the island of Zanzibar off the coast of Tanzania can definitely take the title of land of the setting sun. The “spice islands” as it is referred to is predominantly muslim (conservative) and has so much charm, so much character that it is literally bursting from every nook and cranny of every alley.

Touring the labyrinth of alleyways that make up the maze that is Stonetown, the main of attraction of Zanzibar town, you couldn’t help but become engrossed. Its as if you’ve been transported thousands of miles back into some ancient Persian city. The streets are so narrow that cars can barely pass and most of the traffic is on scooters. Every building is so tightly packed and is so alluring that they each seem to have their own story. It brings a different meaning to the phrase ‘if buildings could talk’. Children run through the streets everywhere, all with smiles on their faces, and each storefront seems to have old men or women sitting in front looking as if they could tell you a thousand stories.

Walking through the alleyways it was easy to see how someone could get lost for days in there without knowing their way around. But sometimes its fun to just get lost and see where the road leads you to. The first evening in zbar we hitup a popular expat bar that sits high up on the Indian ocean to see the sunset (I think it was actually called sunset bar). A great atmosphere (with somewhat pricey drinks!) but we’re all there for the main attraction. Don’t ask me how, but when the sun finally did set, the crowded bar broke out in applause as if we had all just seen a once in a lifetime show rather than something that has happened everyday since the dawn of time. Zbar is a unique place, there are sandbanks of white sand in the middle of the ocean which you can reach by hiring a boat which takes you 20 minutes out into the ocean to what is basically your own private beach surrounded by blue/turquoise ocean. The only catch is that you have to vacate before the high tide engulfs the beach!

We took a day trip up north to Kendwa for more sun and sand, and then returned to Stonetown to ring in the new year on at a beachfront bar. It was one countdown I will never forget! The best things about Zanzibar are the simple ones. Wandering the streets, or just sitting and watching. A couple mornings I ventured out to a nearby café while everyone else slept and sat on the patio to see what went by. Vendors, tourists, sellers, buyers, everyone living their life. Evening street food markets entice you to sample a wide range of sea food, breads, Zanzibar-style pizza, and dessert pizza (an amazing dessert made of banana and chocolate). Zanzibar is full of legends, be it the spirits that supposedly walk the streets and overtake the human body, or evil beings that invade the island during times of stress. Its quirky in its own special way, you’ll shake your head, or even laugh at the stories that come out of this island, but the irony is that you can’t help wanting more.

The 8th Natural Wonder of the World

First off, Happy New Year to you all, and wish everyone the best for 2009!

Back in September I fulfilled one of my ultimate goals of going on a natural wonder - a real live African safari in the Masai Mara. My time in the mara made me realize that one safari was not enough! Over the holiday period, i was lucky enough to go on another safari in what is described as the 8th Natural Wonder of the World – the Ngorongoro Crater in Northern Tanzania. Now, I’m not going to try and compare the 2 safari’s or attempt to decide which one was better. They were both incredible experiences, each providing its own unique sights and beauty. One stark difference though relates to the laws that govern safari’s in Kenya and Tanzania. In Kenya, safari vehicles are allowed to veer off the roads and follow animals wherever they go. While this makes for much closer enounters and interactions, it does so to the detriment of the ecosystem, whereas in Tanzania safari vehicles are required by law to stay on the gravel roads which is so much better for the environment and the animals.

Anyways, we arrived in Arusha after a long 9 hour bus ride from Mombasa where we were picked up by our hotel for the 3 hour drive up to the crater. The crater itself is an 80 sq km. piece of land that used to be a volcano and is now its own self-supporting ecosystem. The animals that live inside the crater are basically on their own, the walls of the crater are incredibly steep and therefore no animals can really enter/exit the crater. Which makes you wonder how some of the larger animals (i.e. hippos, elephants) got there in the first place? Just another one of nature’s miracles. We finally arrived at the Serena lodge on the rim of the crater weary, dusty, dirty, and sweaty – to find that the president of Tanzania was on his way here as well. As we were the only ones in the lobby at the time, we were instructed to sit and wait while he passed with his entourage and to “sit still and not make any sudden moves” (suffice to say that his entourage was probably all armed and ready to shoot first and ask questions later). The president arrived an walked by us and offered a friendly ‘hello how are you?’ to which I think we all responded with some sort of ‘good thanks, you?’ The irony is that I have been living in Kenya for 6 months now and have yet to even be in the same city as the President of Kenya, I was in Tanzania for about 4 hours before I met the President there. Ah well, now I can add him to the list of game animals that I saw.

As our lodge was located on the rim of the crater we were treated with 2 incredible sunrises (which required early wakeups but totally worth it) as the sun slowly came up over the rim. It was one of the more incredible sights I’ve seen. Our day long game drive provided us with great sights and lots of game, also I finally saw the only animal I did not get to see in Masai Mara – a cheetah! As I mentioned back in September, being on safari allowed me to see the Africa of my dreams. This time, it was a more surreal experience as I sat and watched all these incredible sights, the magestic animals in their natural habitat, the natural colours of the crater, and the painting that was their habitat, a strange feeling came over me as I thought about the spectrum of sights I have seen in my time here. From the saddest sights of poverty and despair, to the gem that was the sun rising over the rim of the crater as it greeted the earth for another day of life. But that’s the magic of Africa, it may sometimes bring you to a low, or make you question a lot of things but it will always bring you up again.